Eating In Translation

The national dish of Jamaica may have the looks and the texture of an eggy scramble, but those yolk-yellow tidbits are actually ackee (or akee), a tropical fruit native to West Africa (ackee and salt fish; small; $7). In New York, the fruit is invariably canned; its partners are typically salt cod, plus boiled flour dumplings, johnnycakes, or rice and beans; and the dish is offered almost exclusively at breakfasttime. The ackee tempered the saltiness of the fish considerably without offering much flavor of its own, though since I've never tasted it fresh, I can't tell you what flavor that might be.

Sally's is a steam-table eatery with a half-dozen seats, not a restaurant proper, but the food on display made an uncommonly good appearance. Worth a look.

Sally's Restaurant
1444 Fulton St., Bedford-Stuyvesant, Brooklyn
718-771-3138